[yoshuaspawn]

Hello folks,
The 'road less traveled PJ' beta 3

Im using an 8.9" LCD with a sweet resolution of 1024x600 16:9
The catch.... Im integrating a portable dvd-player into my PJ. Only mini plug AV in(with no mod as of yet... )
Im not much of a gamer, so that dosent bug me too much.
I have done this before, but done alot of reading and day-dreaming since then. I hope to have this one give me good results for a few years, until home-ownership is on my radar. Also, who knows... buy that time, maybe there will be 9" HD panels, suitable LED's, and cars you can drive to the moon.


Upgrades this time around: 575w arc lamp and ebalast from a Dukane OHP. 5600K.
I would like to thank member Sporty for posting his results with this light engine.
If your considering using it, just keep in ming it was designed to accomadate a 12" panel.
It is adaptable, but I wouldnt call it a piece of cake. Be sure to do your research before you choose this light.
If you would would like some more pics of the OHP dismanteling process, I have some.


also,Lumenlab S15 standard lenses.


I really want to do a genuine mini hass, Im being helped out buy the very capable Joechevy2000 with the enclosre.
The image on the right is the panel sitting on the stage glass of the OHP(Just before I blew its mind out and tore it apart ..... quite a can of worms)

Attached File(s)

•  0.jpg (37.94K)
  Number of downloads: 9
•  4.jpg (43K)
  Number of downloads: 7

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 12 October 2006 - 12:19 PM

[yoshuaspawn]

Here's how Im trying to lay it out in the box.

I plan on using two fans, 1) the light-box (light engine dedicated airflow chamber with its own cool air slot)

And 2) in the standard position to cool the LCD and eballast on its way out the back door.


The pencil line in front of the lamp represents the mirror. I hope I can fold the light path in the back like this. This would let me keep the length at around 2' or so... I hope.

Also, the inside width of the enclosre as layed out here is 10" exactly.

If I go with the hass form I have in mind, the highest point at the lens carrier is 6.25". I hope to have the hight taper off to 3.5" front(focus box) and back (eballast storage).

Attached File(s)

•  0.jpg (95.3K)
  Number of downloads: 8

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 22 February 2006 - 05:22 AM

[yoshuaspawn]

Birds eye view....

Attached File(s)

•  1.jpg (88.21K)
  Number of downloads: 10

[yoshuaspawn]

One more pic of the projected panel, just ploped on the stage glass in daylight w shades open on the pre-butchered OHP.
I cant wait to not be wasting all the light around the panel!
From ghost in the shell 2,

Attached File(s)

•  1.jpg (32.14K)
  Number of downloads: 6

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 21 February 2006 - 05:54 AM

[yoshuaspawn]

Any input is appreciated as always.

[yoshuaspawn]

Question,

I scored on the Dukane OHP. It was listed as having a "broken magnifier". I thought it was going to be the fresnal, but it was a mirror that was broken!!!

And only 56 hours on the lamp.
Got it for 90$ shipped
However!
When I dismanteled the light engine... I was bummed to discover that this very nice little reflector is cracked.

Any suggestions on stoping this crack from traveling?
JB weld maybe? I dont want to make it worse, but then again I dont want to wait around for it to break.

Attached File(s)

•  0.jpg (73.48K)
  Number of downloads: 7

[arizonavideo]

yoshuaspawn, on Feb 21 2006, 08:24 PM, said:

Question,

I scored on the Dukane OHP. It was listed as having a "broken magnifier". I thought it was going to be the fresnal, but it was a mirror that was broken!!!

And only 56 hours on the lamp.
Got it for 90$ shipped
However!
When I dismanteled the light engine... I was bummed to discover that this very nice little reflector is cracked.

Any suggestions on stoping this crack from traveling?
JB weld maybe? I dont want to make it worse, but then again I dont want to wait around for it to break.

The crack can't be fixed but the pro reflector might work OK. Does the light engine use a condenser lens? if not then the pro reflector fron LL will be fine. The replacment reflector for any altman 6" fresnel spotlight would work also.

Some one said they killed ther Dukane ballast by runing it outside the OHP. you might make sure that some forced air blows on it.

[elbeghast]

That's awesome Yoshuaspawn! I like your tiny lcd.That light engine is cool too. You are going to have a small projector with a big ego.

My brother use to stop cracks in glass with a Dremel tool.You have to drill a very small hole at the end of the crack.Be careful,if you apply too much pressure while drilling the crack could get worse.It may be helpful to put a drop or two of super glue in the crack before it's drilled.I have never done this,it could be tricky on a curved surface,but I've seen it work.

[yoshuaspawn]

Awsome, Thanks guys!

AV, the light engine does have a precondensor. So the pro-reflector wont work then?
And on the ebalast, I have read that too... that there knd of krappy. So Im planing to go a little overboard with cooling it. I have fired the bulb after taking it apart, and so-far, so-good.

elbeghast, thanks mang, thats the plan. Hopefullly this thing will be nice little movie-blaster. Your screenies rock BTW buddy. Your PJ is big with a freaking HUGE ego
I dont think Im going to try drilling and filling, but I was thinking about superglue in a syringe or somthing. Im just afraid the glue will melt, or even worse... EXPAND

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 22 February 2006 - 05:21 AM

[arizonavideo]

yoshuaspawn, on Feb 21 2006, 09:15 PM, said:

Awsome, Thanks guys!

AV, the light engine does have a precondensor. So the pro-reflector wont work then?
And on the ebalast, I have read that too... that there knd of krappy. So Im planing to go a little overboard with cooling it. I have fired the bulb after taking it apart, and so-far, so-good.

elbeghast, thanks mang, thats the plan. Hopefullly this thing will be nice little movie-blaster. Your screenies rock BTW buddy. Your PJ is big with a freaking HUGE ego
I dont think Im going to try drilling and filling, but I was thinking about superglue in a syringe or somthing. Im just afraid the glue will melt, or even worse... EXPAND

The reflector should get to 400 deg or so any thing not metal or glass will melt. you could just leave it it might not crack any further.
The pro reflector may work for a small lcd. A quick test is to take a piece of paper cut it to 74mm round and put it 22mm behind the lamp center. From the front side look through the condensor at the same angle as the end of the LCD If you can see the fake reflector and not see past it then its large enough.

[yoshuaspawn]

Im starting to think I should mount the ballast under the box instead of packing it all in there.
Anyone agree?
This would make it alot more simple and at least 4" shorter in length. I have comissioned joechevy2000 to help me out with the hass-box. Hopefully he agrees this is a simpler, more practical solution.

Actually, Joe, if you want, I found out today I can get this cut on a laser cutter. So if its easier for you, you can just send me a DXF file, or an auto-cad file, and I can get it burned on the laser.
Unless your itching to cut somthing on your new machine of course

So this pic,
just these two components in the enclosre looks like a better solution for a "genuine" mini-hassman I think. Thats a 12" steel ruler from the LCD to where the focus box and trip would be (300 mm fres). The light engine( 4.25" square x10" wide) is placed 180 mm from the lamp for the 220 fres. So this is just about 2' long.
good? no good?

Attached File(s)

•  0.jpg (85.87K)
  Number of downloads: 3

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 23 February 2006 - 01:53 AM

[elbeghast]

I like the idea of having the ballast under the box.My ballast is 20' away from my projector,tucked neatly in a corner.If it gets too warm at night,I can set it on the roof. Your ballast will probably be cooler under your box too.

[joecnc2006]

How does this look for size?

Attached File(s)

•  Mini_Haas_Side.pdf (40.14K)
  Number of downloads: 409

[yoshuaspawn]

joe2000chevy, on Feb 23 2006, 04:28 PM, said:

How does this look for size?

Joe, looks awesome. And with only 1.5 eyes no less! Hope thats on the up-and-up.
I was trying to get it a little shorter, but I think your spot on with it, and I will have a little play, which is good.

So Joe, I think I would like you to cut the box for me too, because If I got it cut on the laser, I would still have to hand-router the grooves for the lid right? The laser can go any depth in the wood, but its a straight beam no matter what obviously, so routing chanels would just be a waste of time and energy on a laser.
Am I correct in this regard?

Just let me know about squaring up further to CNC the box, and for your time. I cant wait to see the rest!

[yoshuaspawn]

Hey Joe,
also a few more pics for technical stuff.
The only dimension I know I absolutley NEED is the inside width of 10" exactly. Just keep in mind that Im keeping it simple and slim by bolting the light-box right to the side panels.
Same deal on my lens carrier, its ready to be slid right into a 10" width.
The height you have there is perfecto. Can you scribe a center line inside the box for me to line up my components? that would rule.

Does your design use those case spacers? Those will need to be clear of the light box and lens carrier. Maybe just behind the light-box, and just before the lens carrier?.


I only had to slightly mod the light box from the dukane.
I basicly just took it in an inch so the fan can sit inside the light box, rather than just outside it as originaly set up. I replaced it with this handsome chrome ever-cool, which fits into the end of the light box.
The other side is equipped with a nice air vent. At first I thought the fan wouldnt work as efficiently going straight across the light-box, but MAN, this thing is moving a TON of air. I put a piece of paper on the intake vent, and it was like a HOOVER. And its going to have nowhere to go but straight out the other side.

Joe, if I tell you dimensions, can you cut holes for the fan covers to flt in flush in the side-panels? If its too much of a PITA, I can take care of that by-hand. But you know where the lightbox will be, so I dont think it would be too hard. Let me know your thoughts

Attached File(s)

•  0.jpg (90.11K)
  Number of downloads: 5

[yoshuaspawn]

Is it normal that I think my light-box is sexy?

This fan cover is the one I want to sink flush in the side-wall. The hole on the other side can be the same size. I took out the vent so you can see what the intake side of the light-box looks like. Nice, black louver thingys.

Attached File(s)

•  1.jpg (73.16K)
  Number of downloads: 3

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 24 February 2006 - 12:33 AM

[joecnc2006]

yoshuaspawn, on Feb 23 2006, 06:22 PM, said:

Hey Joe,
also a few more pics for technical stuff.
The only dimension I know I absolutley NEED is the inside width of 10" exactly. Just keep in mind that Im keeping it simple and slim by bolting the light-box right to the side panels.
Same deal on my lens carrier, its ready to be slid right into a 10" width.
The height you have there is perfecto. Can you scribe a center line inside the box for me to line up my components? that would rule.

Does your design use those case spacers? Those will need to be clear of the light box and lens carrier. Maybe just behind the light-box, and just before the lens carrier?.
I only had to slightly mod the light box from the dukane.
I basicly just took it in an inch so the fan can sit inside the light box, rather than just outside it as originaly set up. I replaced it with this handsome chrome ever-cool, which fits into the end of the light box.
The other side is equipped with a nice air vent. At first I thought the fan wouldnt work as efficiently going straight across the light-box, but MAN, this thing is moving a TON of air. I put a piece of paper on the intake vent, and it was like a HOOVER. And its going to have nowhere to go but straight out the other side.

Joe, if I tell you dimensions, can you cut holes for the fan covers to flt in flush in the side-panels? If its too much of a PITA, I can take care of that by-hand. But you know where the lightbox will be, so I dont think it would be too hard. Let me know your thoughts

no problem at all might as well get it right now... the fan i take it is a 120mm?, post the hole hole diminsions and the screw holes for it, also do not forget a cooling for the lcd itself, and the space between the light engine and the rear fresnel will get hot also if there is no air to excape, so i would sugest two fans, the one you have for the light engine and also one to draw air from top of lcd between it and the rear fresnel out the bottom of the rear fresnel then back up top just infront of the light box.

Joe

[yoshuaspawn]

I cant thank you enough Joe. Im pumped.

Im not sure how the fan is mesured, but it looks to be 80mm square.
The hole for the fan covers should be 95mm square, with what looks like a 1/8" radius on the corners.
You dont have to worry about the screw holes, this should fit snug enough for me to glue the 2-part fan-cover flush in the side panel.

Could you make the vent side hole in the side panel a little smaller? like 85mm square?
If you were looking at the PJ head on at the triplet, the vent side is the right panel.

And I was going to ask if you can put a hole for the evercool PCAC fan in the storel, as you mentioned, for cooling the LCD and rest of the box. Put it wherever makes the most sense to you.Speaking of cooling the LCD..... do you think the top-secret cooling slot idea I asked you about is going to be do-able? You didnt forget did-ja?
I dont want to spill the beans on that one till we have some nice pics....

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 24 February 2006 - 04:05 AM

[yoshuaspawn]

Also, I was wondering if its ok to make it all out of birch ply, or whatever real wood will look clean, and take a coat of stain if I wanted to do that before I assemble it. I dont mind the cover MDF, but I would like real wood sides natural or with some tung oil or stain I think.

Im totaly flexible of course, if this is not the way you want to do it, or if it might cost a bit more.

One other note, can you cut the hole for the standard triplet in the front panel? Thanks, and sorry for all the questions.

.Josh

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 25 February 2006 - 06:54 AM

[elbeghast]

This Top Secret cooling slot has peaked my interest.I will discover your secret plans and expose them to the world.....(sinister laughing)....(choking)....(quiter sinister laughing).

I really am interested though.Can't wait til it's declassified!

[yoshuaspawn]

Well,
went snowboarding over the weekend, and its back to class and work. Managed to do a few things though.
I stockpiled a few of these LCD's, particularly because I scratched the polarbear a little during my first AG removal. So I found my happy place , put on some relaxing music, and did a proper AG removal on another panel.
Rag method,
6 hour soak,
clean up w distilled water and denatured alch.

it went perfect this time. This little panel is a very thin, polysilicon tft.
I have a feeling the transmittence is great, maybe I will borrow a meter and measure sometime

Attached File(s)

•  DSCF0095.JPG (94.09K)
  Number of downloads: 4

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 28 February 2006 - 07:49 AM

[yoshuaspawn]

Also got the design Joechevy programed printed out 1:1
Its absolutley perfect.
I cant wait, but I know I have to be patient joe, your time is valuable, and you have your hands in alot of pies! I wont forget that when you get the time to bang it out. Just hit me up when you can with an update,

Attached File(s)

•  DSCF0096.JPG (69.68K)
  Number of downloads: 5

[yoshuaspawn]

More,

Attached File(s)

•  DSCF0098.JPG (61.34K)
  Number of downloads: 4

[yoshuaspawn]

Say hi to Gypsy,
She is my homegirl. My other girlfriend dosent take as kindly to quality time with PJ. :angry:

Attached File(s)

•  DSCF0103.JPG (84.47K)
  Number of downloads: 4

[yoshuaspawn]

So Im also wondering about RF input for TV watching.
Well, ok you got me...

, its just for ABC's LOST.


Can anyone recomend an affordable soulution?
My only AV in is mini-plug on the portable DVD player. But it's really not bad. . I have gotten a good picture with my mac's s-video out. It detects it at 800X600. Looks shaky in 1024x768. But it actually looks really nice in 720x480. Thats standard DVD res right? That would kind of make sense right, because the player is configured to scale DVD resolution to 1024x600, the LVDS panel's native resolution.

Here's the screens spec sheet in case your curious about the LCD itself.
http://www.flatcontr...09C362S_V10.pdf
I also just purchased a service manual for the player to rule out any hope af an input mod.
More on that later.



Anyway, I just dont know if I should go with somthing for my mac, or somthing like the N6??

I dont really understand the whole HD whoopla totaly, but might I be able to view 480p ?

This post has been edited by yoshuaspawn: 01 March 2006 - 12:10 AM