[Pirin]

It's time to start my foray into the land of Lumenlab Projectors!

I have decided to go with the following parts:
- BenQ FP71V+ LCD (17", 1280x1024, No anti-glare coating)
- Lumenlab LL65K T15 Light Kit (including the VUE eBallast)
- Lumenlab Pro Lens Kit
- Lumnelab Pro Reflector

Progress will be a little slow, as I really will only have time to work on this on weekends. Ideally, I would love to have a picture by the end of October, and to complete it by then end of November. More than likely, I will finish it sometime in December; and I pray that if all else fails, I will complete it no later than the end of January so I can watch the SuperBowl in 90" diagonal projection wonder.

I am shooting for a ceiling mounted projector, so I will be trying the split fresnel approach with gravity controlled keystone correction. I may have to reconsider it, as everyone loves the unsplit fresnel design better, but that will give me a chance to continue to tinker after the project is declared "done." Oh, and no precondenser at first either.

I got my Lumenlab shipment earlier this week, so I am ready to start this weekend!

This post has been edited by Pirin: 21 December 2007 - 02:11 PM

[Pirin]

Ok, one thing I really wanted to have for this projector was a remote controlled On/Off switch. I decided to go with an RF (Radio Frequency) remote instead of an IR (InfraRed) remote, because I didn't want to have to point the remote at the projector for it to work (the projector will be behind me when watching). However, I also wanted to be able to turn the projector On and Off at the projector itself, just in case the remote's battery dies, or I lose the remote.

My solution was to build a special circuit that would connect the RF Remote and On/Off button in parallel, and latch the state change. The remote and On/Off button are momentary switches, so the remote and switch just signal that a transition from On->Off (or Off->On) is desired. The circuitry will actual do the transition and hold the desired state.

The circuit I chose to use is based off of the "Relay Toggle Circuit Using a 556 Timer" circuit I found on Bill Bowden's website. I have modified it slightly so that whenever you plug the circuit in, it ALWAYS starts the projector in the OFF state.

Here is the modified schematic I made
 RelayToggleUsing556Timer_Modified.gif (3.32K)
Number of downloads: 64

Here is the actual circuit once I soldered it all together
 ToggleCircuit.jpg (49.08K)
Number of downloads: 50

And here is the RF Remote I won off of eBay (the quarter is just for size comparisons)
 RemoteControl.jpg (52.1K)
Number of downloads: 58

Everything works like a charm.
Next up, the light engine.

This post has been edited by Pirin: 11 October 2006 - 01:36 PM

[Pirin]

Well, the light engine is taking a lot longer than I had anticipated. I guess I should have figured on that since I have never worked with metal before. Anyway, I decided to go ahead and test fire the bulb/eBallast without the light engine enclosure. It started up right away and appeared to be at peak brightness after 5 minutes. Bulb burned solidly for 7 hours!!

I do have one question for you VUE eBallast experts out there. Over the burn-in period, the eBallast got quite hot. I had it in my garage, about 6 feet from the bulb, so I don't think there was any heat introduced by the bulb. Anyway, it got hotter and hotter until about 2 hours into the burn, where it seemed to peak at its hottest temperature. I didn't have a thermometer handy, so I don't know what temperature it actually go to.

The eBallast was too hot for me to keep my hand on it longer than a second or 2. There is no way I could pick it up with my bare hands. Now, I didn't get any burns from touching it, but that seems quite hot. Is this normal?

Thanks,
Pirin

[Pirin]

Here is a start on my lightbox. It is made out of aluminum tubing (with zinc "L" brackets). I am starting with just the wire frame, which I drilled holes in and then threaded the holes using a Tap and Die Set (shown below):
 ThreadingAluminum_Small.jpg (44.94K)
Number of downloads: 56

This allows me to screw directly into the aluminum tubing and I don't need any nuts on the other side to hold it together. Here is the finished framing with the bulb next to it for size comparisons.
 LightBoxFrame_Small.jpg (45.58K)
Number of downloads: 55

[Remdaddy]

Hey Pirin,
well after being sucked in to looking at your other project accomplishments (way cool MAME and Jukebox) I can tell this PJ build is going to be a fun one to watch.

Looks good so far, and good luck.
Oh the ballast deal...mine got pretty warm also, so I incorporated some active cooling (put a fan on it )
I'm not so sure that it should get so hot 6ft away from the bulb though. Of course I have the old e-ballast also, so it may not be apples to apples...it just may be the nature of the beast.

[Pirin]

Remdaddy, on Oct 11 2006, 06:58 AM, said:

Hey Pirin,
well after being sucked in to looking at your other project accomplishments (way cool MAME and Jukebox) I can tell this PJ build is going to be a fun one to watch.

Looks good so far, and good luck.
Oh the ballast deal...mine got pretty warm also, so I incorporated some active cooling (put a fan on it )
I'm not so sure that it should get so hot 6ft away from the bulb though. Of course I have the old e-ballast also, so it may not be apples to apples...it just may be the nature of the beast.

Thanks! I hope to do the projector justice in comparison. The main thing that concerns me in comparing the LL projector to my other projects is that I had use of my dad's woodworking shop for all previous projects. Unfortunately, I won't have that available this time around, so I am stuck with a circular saw, cordless drill, and router for my complete power tool arsenal. (So far, all the aluminum has been cut with a hack saw ) Oh well, most of what I enjoy in the DIY arena is the building process itself, and this will be quite an interesting journey.

[Remdaddy]

Pirin, on Oct 11 2006, 09:44 AM, said:

Thanks! I hope to do the projector justice in comparison. The main thing that concerns me in comparing the LL projector to my other projects is that I had use of my dad's woodworking shop for all previous projects. Unfortunately, I won't have that available this time around, so I am stuck with a circular saw, cordless drill, and router for my complete power tool arsenal. (So far, all the aluminum has been cut with a hack saw ) Oh well, most of what I enjoy in the DIY arena is the building process itself, and this will be quite an interesting journey.

Hey that's all the tools needed to build about anything...though a little care and planing are required.
One of my first purchases to my tool arsenal many years ago was a Jig-Saw. I highly recommend one, you can get metal cutting blades for it too, plus they even cut circles (if you go slow). Even though I have amassed a little colection of shop tools, I still use this tool for a lot of projects. I even got some extra-long blades once and used it as a saws-all.
Jig saws are a lot of bang for the buck. Just a friendly suggestion to those who are limited in the tools.

Good luck Pirin...

[p_su]

Best wishes for your PJ build. Judjuing from the mp3 jukebox and mame cabinet... you'll probably do just fine Those cuts on that aluminum tubing look pretty dang good for a hacksaw. I've had some luck cutting 90deg angled aluminum with a jigsaw- and agree with Remdaddy. They're handy if you can pick one up.
Better get a decent one tho.. I burnt up a black and decker jigsaw doing speaker cabinets.. got a dewalt and that thing is bulletproof in comparison.
Provided my projector goes OK... mame cabinet is looking verry tempting. ..I do love arcade games... gallaga.. galaxians..1942...rampart, rampage... oh man... exciting. Any favorites on your machine?

[Pirin]

p_su, on Oct 11 2006, 03:48 PM, said:

Provided my projector goes OK... mame cabinet is looking verry tempting. ..I do love arcade games... gallaga.. galaxians..1942...rampart, rampage... oh man... exciting. Any favorites on your machine?

Well, if you couldn't have guessed, Galaga is my favorite arcade game. Since I modeled the cabinet after the Galaga Cocktail style cabinet, my controls are limited to one 4-way joystick and one button for each player. Plus, being a cocktail cabinet, only vertical-screen oriented games that alternate players and flip the screen are appropriate for this machine. Those items severly limit what games can be played on the machine. I would say that I mostly play Galaga, Mappy and Ms. Pac-man.

I too love 1942, but without a second button, I can't play it. Thus, my second MAME cabinet!!! It will be a normal sized cabinet with controls for 2 players to play simultaneously (each with 6 buttons). Unfortunately, I have been "working" on it for almost 3 years now. I kind of lost my steam and got interested in the other DIY projects you saw. Besides, once I finish this projector and get to play arcade games on a 90" screen, why would I want to go back to a 19" cabinet?!?

This post has been edited by Pirin: 13 October 2006 - 08:29 PM

[tameone]

Pirin, on Oct 12 2006, 12:26 PM, said:

Besides, once I finish this projector and get to play arcade games on a 90" screen, why would I want to go back to a 19" cabinet?!?

MAME + PJ =

[p_su]

A fine point... I hadn't considered the implications of the cotctail style cabinet. I was actually considering (once my projector is finished) making a sort of console podium.. either something to be used while sitting, or standing depending on the throw (not so good to stand in front of the projector if its a long throw). Use the projector for the display device, but have an arcade style joystick and button input option when playing emulators... best of both worlds. You don't get to have a dedicated cabinet... but then again, you don't have to build a dedicated cabinet

[Pirin]

Ok, I decided to redo the airflow design of my lightbox, so I don't have much of an update. Hopefully I will get most of it done this weekend, so I can give a proper update. I do have 2 new shots to share, but just ignore the louvres that you see in the pictures.

Here is a picture of how I am mounting the mogul:
 LightboxFrameWithMogul_Small.jpg (45.61K)
Number of downloads: 47

Here I have covered the bottom of the frame to prevent any air from coming up from underneath. If you look closely, you can see the mogul wires coming out of the base of the frame. This way, I can have the lightbox remain flat on the bottom of the projector:
 LightboxFrameWithMogulAndBottomFlashing_Small.jpg (48.56K)
Number of downloads: 45

[Pirin]

Got a little further on my lightbox this weekend...

 01_FrontOutside_NoHole_Small.jpg (38.01K)
Number of downloads: 47
This is the front of the outside of the lightbox. I have not yet cut the 5" hole that will let the light out, but just imagine one in the center sheet of aluminum, centered on the arc of the bulb behind it. Also, note the louvres on the top. This is for airflow (to be explained in more detail below...)

 02_FrontInside_NoFlashing_Small.jpg (40.94K)
Number of downloads: 56
This is the same outside front wall, but shot from the inside of the lightbox. Again, I will eventually cut a hole in the aluminum for light to exit.

[Pirin]

 03_FrontInside_WithFlashing_NoLouvres_Small.jpg (34.83K)
Number of downloads: 49
Here, I have added some worked aluminum to form a channel for the air. The idea is to have the air enter the outside front top, travel down the side channels, and then enter the bulb chamber on the bottom of the inside wall (the rectangular gaps). I had to leave the center section clear so that the light from the bulb could still exit the yet to be cut hole.

 04_FrontInside_Complete_Small.jpg (34.73K)
Number of downloads: 44
Added louvres to allow airflow, but prevent any light from escaping the vent system. I have offset the louvres from the outside and inside (top vs. bottom) to keep light from exiting as well. (Don't mind the small rectangular cutouts in the louvers; I missed up and used the parts anyway )

[Pirin]

 05_BackInside_NoLouvres_Small.jpg (40.43K)
Number of downloads: 49
Here is the inside (bulb side) of the back panel of the light box. The holes are for air to be pulled out the back of the light box.

 06_BackInside_WithLouvres_Small.jpg (36.11K)
Number of downloads: 44
Added the louvres to help block light.

[Pirin]

 07_InsideShot_Small.jpg (43.8K)
Number of downloads: 46
Here is the back attached to the lightbox frame. Again, the air enters the top of the front, travels down the inner air chambers to enter the light box on the bottom. Then, the air will travel up, over the bulb, and out the top of the back piece.

 08_BackOutside_NoFans_Small.jpg (35.38K)
Number of downloads: 44
Finally, the very back of the box. This sheet of aluminum makes another chamber for the air to travel through. It enters the top of the back piece, travels down this chamber, and exits through these square holes. Each of these holes will have a Scythe 120mm fan (8.7dBa) attached to it. The fans will be expelling air from the lightbox, so the overall airflow will be sucked in from in front of the lightbox, and pushed out the back.

Each fan is only 33.5CFM, but nearly completely silent. I know people caution against overcooling the bulb, but I am just trying to keep the internal lightbox temperature below 200 degrees C. I plan on placing a hot mirror over the 5" hole in front to block all IR and UV rays. The hot mirror is rated to be able to withstand up to 200 degree C continuous temperatures. Hopefully, this will cut it.

I still have to figure out how I am going to mount the reflector in the lightbox. Once I do, I plan on using silicon to airseal the outisde sides and back panels so that there is no air intake except via the front louvres.

[Pirin]

To mount the fans on the back, I needed to add a few strips of aluminum. However, that created a new channel for air to enter the back, which I don't want. So, I had to wrap the aluminum mounting strips with more aluminum flashing. The wrapping flashing will be siliconed to the back to seal against air leaks.
 FanGuard.jpg (36.89K)
Number of downloads: 42

Finally, I mounted the fans to the wrapped aluminum strips.
 FansOnFanGuard.jpg (42.2K)
Number of downloads: 41


Next up: Cut the hole in the front for the light to escape, and then mount the hot mirror.

[tameone]

very nice

[Pirin]

tameone, on Oct 29 2006, 10:06 PM, said:

very nice

Thanks! I am happy with the results so far. It has been very slow going, but I guess that is to be expected when working with a new medium. The aluminum is "soft" for a metal, but still a lot harder for me to work with than wood. At one point, I had thought about trying to make the rest of the case in aluminum, or maybe an all aluminum frame covered in 1/8" wood to reduce weight, but at the pace I am currently going, I might never finish .

[Pirin]

My hot mirror is 5.25" in diameter, so I needed to cut a 5" diameter whole in my aluminum plate for the light to escape my lightbox. Unfortunately, I don't have a 5" aluminum cutting hole saw lying around.

So.... with a little mix of perseverance and grunt work...
 CuttingHotMirrorHole.jpg (41.3K)
Number of downloads: 44
TA DA!!! 80-some odd holes drilled around the circumference later, I was able to pop out the center and then file down the remaining "saw tooth" edges to get my 5" hole.

Then, to hold the hot mirror in place, I mounted 3 screws around the hole. Each screw has one large washer and 4 smaller spacer washers. The hot mirror will rest on the spacer washers, and be sandwiched between the aluminum plate and the large washer.
 HotMirrorMountingBracket.jpg (29.95K)
Number of downloads: 39

Lastly, I had to grind down the larger washers so that they did not block any light escaping from the 5" hole.
 LightBoxFront_HotMirrorHole.jpg (38.66K)
Number of downloads: 44

I think the arc is close to the center of the hole, so I am going to try it as is; I can always slide the aluminum plate/hot mirror contraption a little to the left if need be later on.

Now, I just have to figure out the reflector mounting and I can finish up my lightbox.

[arizonavideo]

Holly drill bit Batman can you say Jigsaw?

[arizonavideo]

Nice job on the light box.

This post has been edited by arizonavideo: 03 November 2006 - 06:25 AM

[Pirin]

arizonavideo, on Nov 3 2006, 12:25 AM, said:

Holly drill bit Batman can you say Jigsaw?

Yeah, but I don't own a jigsaw. It has been recommended to me before, but I just haven't gone out and purchased one yet. Of course, the aluminum is so thin that I think the jigsaw would have ripped it to shreds instead of cutting it??

arizonavideo, on Nov 3 2006, 12:25 AM, said:

Nice job on the light box.

Thanks!

[dewshan]

You might be able to cut it with a dremel style tool with a cut off disc. That might be a little easier to control than a jig saw. Your projector is looking good!

[Pirin]

dewshan, on Nov 5 2006, 05:12 PM, said:

You might be able to cut it with a dremel style tool with a cut off disc. That might be a little easier to control than a jig saw.

Yeah, there are a lot of tools on my wish list; a dremel being one of them. Maybe this coming holiday season will be good for my tool collection!?!

dewshan, on Nov 5 2006, 05:12 PM, said:

Your projector is looking good!

Thanks!

This post has been edited by Pirin: 06 November 2006 - 05:59 PM