[jaceace32]

Hey guys,
First off thanks to all who have helped me out with my various questions, did i say various... :-D
Oh and did i say i was done,

Well my 17" pj is built and is quite incredible, had to move back to school so didnt have enough time to post a plog or completed proj, will do soon though..

Although it is done and good, after reading the ceramic buld thread and the precon thread it seems i've come down with the diy bug again.

Bulb

- Also, when you order these bulbs do they come with the csocket or would i have to order one (btw, are any of these it?)
http://froogle.googl...o...e&scoring=p

- How do you overclock/overdrive the bulb? Would i need to get a 150watt ballast or 250watt ballast?


PreCon

Now here is where it gets more interesting, i used the precon calculator and it seems that all the results i get are all of working possibillity.

my setup 330mm/550mm 17" lcd and 22"EFL beseler triplet

now all of these pcx lenses are from surplusshed (links provided)
btw in the calculator i inputer 10mm in the arc field
(btw, sources from surplusshed aka cost consciencence source)

PRECISION 95MM DIA X 300MM FL PCX LENS
Fresnel to Plano= 292.566985 mm
Plano to Arc= 43.89881238 mm
http://www.surplussh...tem/pl1035.html

4.5" DIA CONDENSER LENS, 6.5" FL
Fresnel to Plano= 276.775997 mm
Plano to Arc= 27.49556093 mm
http://www.surplussh...item/l3381.html

3" DIAMETER PCX CONDENSER LENS, 4" FOCAL LENGTH MINT!
Fresnel to Plano= 308.1125172 mm
Plano to Arc= 12.99816983 mm
http://www.surplussh...item/l3561.html

PRECISION FUSED SILICA PCX 75MM DIA, 250MM FL
Fresnel to Plano= 308.9307031 mm
Plano to Arc= 33.9352732 mm
http://www.surplussh...tem/pl1029.html

and others
40mm dia x 200mm fl
50mm dia x 254mm fl

This post has been edited by jaceace32: 09 October 2006 - 08:51 PM

[elken2004]

quick reply sorry forgot your PM,,, dont use a 400 ballast on a 150 watter,, it will fry it

they are 96 volt lamps,, will run on a 100 volt output ballast,, but 1.82amps is rating, altho you can drive them to 2.5 amps max rating

[jaceace32]

400 watt ballast question answered

This post has been edited by jaceace32: 09 October 2006 - 08:50 PM

[mikyd1954]

jaceace32, on Oct 9 2006, 05:02 AM, said:

hmm... since the ballast is a "multi-5" multi tap ballast
120/208/240/277/480
Wouldnt i be able to just 'reguest 150watts or 250 watts?

i just saw this hps ignitor that is adjustable, dont know how but here is the link
http://www.grainger....emId=1611675145

I wouldn't mess with it, you can get a 150w ballast cheaper than that anyway....could you "underdrive" your ballast with a smaller cap? not sure but it sounds like a bad idea....

[jaceace32]

Okay so no way to underdrive the 400 watt...

Now since i want to overclock the ceramic bulb, do i get a 150watt/175watt/ or 250watt?

such as http://californiahyd...talhalide1.html

[HDTVaddict]

what ballast do you have?

This post has been edited by HDTVaddict: 09 October 2006 - 09:18 PM

[jaceace32]

HDTVaddict, on Oct 9 2006, 05:18 PM, said:

what ballast do you have?

i have a HPS 400 Watt ballast product number S400ML5AC4M-500K

[HDTVaddict]

jaceace32, on Oct 9 2006, 05:21 PM, said:

i have a HPS 400 Watt ballast product number S400ML5AC4M-500K

This is a 400w ceramic and should work with you ballast
http://www.bulbs.com...inventory=13318
There is another bulb that will be better and will come out from EYE by the end of the year

[jaceace32]

is this bulb comparable to the ceramics elkin tested in regards to low heat output, contrast, sharpness, etc. Those being the most important...
thanks

[tameone]

jaceace32, on Oct 9 2006, 06:53 PM, said:

is this bulb comparable to the ceramics elkin tested in regards to low heat output, contrast, sharpness, etc. Those being the most important...
thanks

it should give good color reproduction, but might be a tad bit red/orange. CRI of 85 is pretty good. No 400w bulb is going to have low heat output

[HDTVaddict]

jaceace32, on Oct 9 2006, 06:53 PM, said:

is this bulb comparable to the ceramics elkin tested in regards to low heat output, contrast, sharpness, etc. Those being the most important...
thanks

Well I believe it should have comparable characteristics. It will be brighter and produce more heat since it is a 400w.

And if you can wait:
http://www.eyelighti...om/ceraarc.html
also has a higher cri

This post has been edited by HDTVaddict: 09 October 2006 - 11:21 PM

[mikyd1954]

jaceace32, on Oct 9 2006, 05:53 PM, said:

is this bulb comparable to the ceramics elkin tested in regards to low heat output, contrast, sharpness, etc. Those being the most important...
thanks

in a word? no.... or at least not in my opinion, but I'm sure elken woud agree.... as I see it there are 2 major components to elkens results ... relatively equal levels of red,green and blue(a cri of 96,although I'm not sure that that is always indicative of equal levels(and no color spikes we don't want) and a very short arc (10mm) .... the word "ceramic" as applied to bulbs seems to have grown to have almost mythic proprtions lately around here and not deservedly so.... the low heat output is simply a function of the fact that it is 150 watts, though the ceramics may be more efficient still, the low heat is mainly due to the low wattage

[jaceace32]

mikyd1954, on Oct 9 2006, 07:09 PM, said:

in a word? no.... or at least not in my opinion, but I'm sure elken woud agree.... as I see it there are 2 major components to elkens results ... relatively equal levels of red,green and blue(a cri of 96,although I'm not sure that that is always indicative of equal levels(and no color spikes we don't want) and a very short arc (10mm) .... the word "ceramic" as applied to bulbs seems to have grown to have almost mythic proprtions lately around here and not deservedly so.... the low heat output is simply a function of the fact that it is 150 watts, though the ceramics may be more efficient still, the low heat is mainly due to the low wattage

Very true of the the word "ceramic" growing to mythic proportions lol

the reason i was gunning for elkins ceramic is the smaller arc and lower heat output with such massive strength is compatible with many condensers and great results

as it is right now i have a ushio-s400dd bulb which as you know puts out alot of heat which means it will crack many condensers.. unless this was a good setup, btw i feel i have good cooling
(thanks to arizonavideos post in precon experimentation thread)
330mm rear fresnel
s400dd arc to condenser is 50mm
fresnel to condenser 230mm

btw, do any of the condensers i posted above look good for using with a s400dd?

[jaceace32]

very very very very very ugly drawing.... .....but,
does this look about right,

still need some help picking a condenser but, this should help a lot of people i guess

maybe the end of the rear fl should be moved a little higher enough to fill the lamp arc and that is where the rays converge.
 condenser.JPG (39.98K)
Number of downloads: 42

This post has been edited by jaceace32: 10 October 2006 - 04:18 AM

[mikyd1954]

from your drawing I'd say you picked the 2 lenses that will be best(the first two in your list..the larger the condenser, the mor light it will gather, the 4.5x6.5 is probably best with a 330mm rear fresnel.... the ushio is the shortest arc 400w bulb so your sharpness should be good(don't know much about the 22" triplet).....just make sure you have a nice strong fan...at least 100cfm or more, I think Sims uses 150 almost.... but I'd get a couple extra condensers or , if you can afford it, get a 4.5x6.5 pyrex(altman) or 6x9 pyrex altman(check the precondenser experimentation thread for sources)..make sure if you do though, that you order the pyrex as there is also a "white plate" lens in the same size