[The_Duchess]

Okay, I just finished up doing prep work with the is panel. They are available for $95 shipped in Cont US from Newegg. Strange, I just went to put a link to the page and they don't sell them anymore. I got mine earlier this week. At any rate, these Hannspree TVs come in lots of variations and I'm guessing the guts are similar and the LCD is identical. I know there's some on Ebay for around a $100.

Specification

TV Application--> 9.6" SVGA(800*600)
Display area? 194.4(H)*145.8(V)mm
Pixel pitch? 0.243(H)*0.243(V)mm
Ratio: 4:3
Tuner: NTSC
Inputs: Composite and S-Video
Response: 25ms or 16ms (for B model)
Pixel arrangement? RGB vertical stripe
Display color? 262,144
Back-light? 2CCFL,side light
Color gamut? 72%
Input signal? 1 Channel LVDS
Display mode? Normally White
Brightness? 350nits
Contrast? 450:1
Viewing angle? Horizontal 65/65,Vertical 45/65
Surface treament? Antiglare,Hard-Coating(3H)
Outline dimension? 224.0(H)*169.2(V)*8.5mm


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I got the baseball version, kinda cheesy but I wasn't after it for the snazzy casing.

This post has been edited by The_Duchess: 15 June 2007 - 02:30 PM

[The_Duchess]

1. Remove the screws on the back then slide a credit card or finger around the top to pry open the 3 plastic clips.

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[The_Duchess]

2. Once you've opened it up and removed the back bezel, remove these 4 screws:

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[The_Duchess]

3. Disconnect the speaker clips by pressing on these tabs:

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4. Pull the board and LCD up carefully and set upright on base:

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[The_Duchess]

5. Remove these 4 screws on the botton board:

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6. Remove the front bezel.

[The_Duchess]

7. Tilt the LCD assembly forward on its base to remove these 4 screws. Make sure to hold the LCD while doing this so it doesn't fall. You could also lay it face down to do this, just watch that you don't lay the LCD on the button board (as it could scratch it).

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Now you can remove the base.

8. Remove the 4 screws on the front.

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[The_Duchess]

9. Remove 4 screws below the tilt bracket:

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And 3 above on the board:

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[The_Duchess]

10. Unthread the F cable plug to completely remove the tilt bracket.

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11. Disconnect the board-to-LCD connector (I don't know the proper terminology for a lot of this stuff, so don't laugh too loud. ) and the screw next to it:

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[The_Duchess]

12. Disconnect the CCFL connectors:

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13. Lift up on the board assembly and remove the clear sticker (can't really see it in the picture) on the outside running along the bottom.

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[The_Duchess]

The board and LCD should now be separated:

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14. Remove the 3 pads and 2 large copper stickers:

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[The_Duchess]

15. Remove the yellow tape and metallic sticker (this is totally the hardest part ):

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16. Remove these tiny 2 screws (one pictured the other is on the other side of the board):

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[The_Duchess]

17. Go around the whole perimeter of the frame carefully prying these little protrusions from the holes they lock into, pushing in and up (I did it with a precision screw driver) on the inner layer EXCEPT for the edge with the edge connectors. Then remove the metal frame and peel the adhesive plastic strip over the board with it.

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It should look like this afterward:

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[The_Duchess]

18. The FFC is a 20 pin .5mm one and you can get an extension here at the LL store or at Mouser (cable part # is 538-21020-0215 for 6" or 538-21020-0219 for 8"; clamp can be any of the following 538-52745-2096, 538-52746-2070, or 538-52559-2072). Be sure to read Brain's tutorial on FFC extensions.

This particular clamp is a hinge style so you just take you finger nail and gently life up to release the FFC.

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19. Finally! lift the backlight free and your LCD is good to go!

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BIG NOTE! There is no removing the AG on this panel because the ploarizer is the one and only layer above the glass substrate on both sides, but both sides have an AG spray-on coating so if you want to mod this panel, Mother's Mag polish is the way to go unless you wanna go a double polar removal (which kinda sounds like it could be troublesome).

Hopefully by the end of the weekend I can post some screenies of this panel in my pj.

[young gun]

totally awesome, any link to a seller other then through ebay?

[johnzo1995]

It look like the s-video plug is a compact vga plug like on the hami monitor. Can that thing take vga?

[jc1965]

Compact vga plug? I've never heard of a compact vga plug other then the mini vga plug that comes on some ibooks. It does look different then a regular s video plug. I think it might be a plug for a multi input dongle svid/rca audio/etc.

[vonneuton]

jc1965, on Feb 16 2007, 06:59 PM, said:

Compact vga plug? I've never heard of a compact vga plug other then the mini vga plug that comes on some ibooks. It does look different then a regular s video plug. I think it might be a plug for a multi input dongle svid/rca audio/etc.

I looked up the Hannspree Winnie the Pooh TV (hah) and it says it has a 4-in-1 plug. So
that's probably it.

[The_Duchess]

Young Gun, here's one for the semitruck version from dogbyte computers: http://dogbytecomput..._in_LCD_TV.html

There's about a dozen versions of this tv (train, firetruck, Winnie the Pooh *nod to Vonneuton* and various others). Some are $300 or more and some are getting closed out. I mention the truck cuz its hideous and therefore probably going for cheaper. I guess just google for 10" or 9.6" Hannspree TV.

Johnzo it doesn't take VGA, it is a multi in connection. It's actually S-video and stereo in but Composite out. The composite in (with its stereo plugs) in on the back of the unit -- little weird. Whether or not there's a hack to get VGA in is well beyond me.

Actually other versions have a true 4-in1, but the baseball just had to go and be quirky! It doesn't affect my design (actually having a long cord with my inputs helps).

[illusionistpro]

duchess, the lcd looks like a prime candidate for sdtv and everything else that is non-hd. Great find, great strip. cant wait to see what box you stick it in.

[The_Duchess]

illusionistpro, on Feb 17 2007, 10:04 PM, said:

duchess, the lcd looks like a prime candidate for sdtv and everything else that is non-hd. Great find, great strip. cant wait to see what box you stick it in.

Thanks! I finally got things up an running and here's a pick of my enclosure. (Thinking about a more aesthetically pleasing solution for the button bar) It's 1/8" hard board on the sides and 1/2" plywood top/bottom/front/back. I wanted to paint it to match my speakers (black and silver woodgrain) but the piece of @#$% Harbor Freight air brush fell apart on me a dozen times so I decided varigated/marble was good enough.

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[The_Duchess]

Oh yes, lest I forget, my set up:

-- Standard LL lenses
-- Eiko DE lamp 4200K (kinda yellowy on start up, but not terrible)
-- LL e-ballast
-- 4 Cooler Master 80mm fans (as you can see)
-- Aerogate 3 fan controller (so far on heat tests after 3 hours doesn't go above 85 f)

All the following are Finding Nemo (as it is a reference movie) and with no tweeking so far. (Truth be told I am soooooooo elated that it is up and running!) If you don't hear from me for a couple of days, I'll be watching movies and playing Playstation.

Oh yeah, the screen is 72" diagonal (roughly 3 times the square inches of viewing surface of the 20 year old RPTV that the pj is sitting on --- I hollowed that sucker out a few weeks ago if anyone is looking for a projection lens from one)


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To be totally honest, the camera adjusted for this one. It wasn't quite this bright.

[The_Duchess]

I'm really liking the color of this little panel. If the shots seem a little "meh" I'm still learning to use this camera.

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[The_Duchess]

So pretty.....

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[The_Duchess]

"Name's Bruce"

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[The_Duchess]

Sydney Harbor

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